85_Monte_SS

Ok folks, I have a 1997 Ford Explorer 4WD with a 4.0 Liter SOHC engine. It will not run. For about a month before it died, every once in a while it would crank but not fire up. I could turn the key off and turn it back on, it would start just fine, and maybe once or twice, it died at a stop light but started right back. I dont know if this is related to the issue I have now or not.

I came outside to go to work one day and it will crank but not start. I checked all the fuses and relays that had anything to do with the fuel or firing systems, I listened to the fuel pump, I could hear it pumping. They all seemed OK so I pulled a plug wire off the coil pack and had my wife crank it over. I could not see or hear fire arcing between the probably inch gap between the plug wire and coil. So I got another coil pack and put on it. Still would crank but wouldnt start.

I decided I didnt want to go any further just guessing so the next morning I hauled it to a local mechanic that I know and trust. He had it for over a month and cant come to a conclusion. He checked to make sure everything is getting power, and wires and connections going to the ECM and other sensors. His computer scanner would not communicate with my ECM to give him codes and readings on the sensors. We have since changed the Crank sensor, and the ECM, and I double checked in the dark and still could not see fire on the coil pack.

Hopefully someone here can help me, Im out of ideas, its too good of a vehicle to junk, I would like to have it running

or even have a guess, I would like to know this information

My top radiator hose on the drivers side will NOT seal up on my Blazer. I have put a new hose on it, new clamp, tried 2 clamps, and clamps in different positions on the hose. I have cleaned the radiator fitting every time Ive had it off. I got it stopped for about a month using High Temp RTV sealant. I applied a liberal coat around the hose fitting on the radiator slid the hose on snugged the clamp down and let it dry for about 20 hours, then tightened the clamp on down. This worked for a while, but it has came back.

It only leaks after Ive driven the Blazer and shut it off, it spits out Anti Freeze for about 5 minutes then stops when the pressure on the system is gone.

I have a 1985 Monte Carlo SS with the 200-4R overdrive transmission. The TV cable is adjusted right and the fluid and filter are pretty new, they were changed about 500 miles ago when the motor was rebuilt.

My problem is that sometimes the tranny will act like it gets hung between 2nd and 3rd gear and coast like its in neutral. I can play with the throttle and get it to kick back into second but it will stay there until I park the car and let it sit a while. Then sometimes it works fine, It doesent slip, or have burnt fluid, or even shift hard. Any help is appreciated, this has me puzzled.

Im having problems with my ABS on my 94 S-10 Blazer, the ABS is kicking in when it shouldnt be, and I got the trouble code 45 for the ABS system does anyone know what this means???

To start off with I have the L69 305 block in my Monte Carlo SS. It has been bored .040 and now has a stroke of 3.75 resulting in a 335 stroker. It has the stock SS heads, from the crossfire motors, casting number 601. with 1.84 intake 1.5 exhaust valves. And stock maniflods, and dual exhaust with glass packs.

I have a Lunati .435 in lift cam, Holley street dominator intake, roller rockers, flat top pistons, and an edelbrock performer 600 cfm carb.

How much horsepower should I have?

How much horsepower will I gain when I add Vortec casting #059 heads, with long tube headers and a true dual exhaust setup?

Should I go with a bigger cam?

I have a 1985 Monte Carlo SS with a 305in it. I needed to set the timing back toTop Dead Center because it got messed up.

I got the #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke with the timing mark on the balancer at 0. Then I made a mark on my distributor as to where the #1 plug wire connected. I removed the cap, and twisted the distributor until the rotor lined up with mark for the the #1 plug. I sat the cap back down on the distributor and lifted it back up several times making sure It was lining up. I traced my plug wires down and made sure they were in the correct order clockwise around the distributor(1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2). I did this 3 times to be sure. I placed the cap back on the distributor and tightened it down. And put the #1 plug back in and connected the wire.

I attempted to start the car and it wouldnt do anything. Then I started experimenting and advanced the timing as far as the distributor would go. It would hit like this but still wouldnt start.

Help Me

Ok, first let me tell you how I got in this pickle. Me and the neighbor were lookin at my car today with the hood up, and I mentioned to him that I needed to retard the timing because it was sputtering on hills. So before I realized what hes doing he grabbed hold of the distributor and gave it a twist and said that oughtta do it. So I took the car down the road and it ran like a$$.

I got back in the yard and set the #1 (drivers side front?) piston to TDC and pulled the distributor cap off to set it. My #1 plug wire is at the front drivers side of the cap pointing at the #1 cyl. But what confused me is on the underside of the cap there was a #1 on a plug in the back. The rotor was closest to this so this is where I set it.

I fired the car up and it idles OK but when I revved it, it has a miss now. I didnt dissconnect any of the plug wires and I put the cap back in the same position. It Ran great before except for the hiccup on hills.

What is wrong with my car?????

something like desktop dyno, so I can get a rough Idea of what I want before I start buying parts.

Small block chevy if that helps

To start off with I did not build this engine the car was gave to me so I dont know all of the details. Ok, I have a 305 H.O. in my 1985 Monte Carlo SS, It has been bored and stroked to a 335. It has a hi-rise Edelbrock intake, edelbrock performer 650cfm 4bbl carb K&N filter. Lunati cam, Im not sure what the lift is, but its not too radical, its a street car, also roller rockers and dual exhaust with glass packs. Stock heads and manifolds.

I was wondering what my HP and Torque ratings would be?

And also what they would be when I add headers, and better heads.

Also any suggestions on a good head? I was told that a Vortec 305 or 350 head would be a relatively inexpensive yet quality head that would allow the engine to breathe the way it should.

Also before you say it, Im not going to a 350 my dad gave me the car and I want to keep it the way he built it except for the Heads and Headers.

I have a Monte Carlo with the stock 305 in it that has been bored and stroked to a 335 stroker, it has an edelbrock performer hi-rise intake, edelbrock 650 cfm 4bbl carb. stock heads, dual exhaust with stock manifolds.

What kind of horsepower should i be putting out and How much will I gain when I get headers and better heads?

My dad recently gave me his Monte Carlo SS. Before giving it to me, he and a friend had pulled the engine and tranny to bore and stroke the engine. After re-installing everything the transmission wont shift into high gear, there was never any problems before being pulled out. Is it possible that since the carb and intake was changed that I need an adapter plate for the TV cable? Or is it somethign more serious? help please