ksephoenix08

I'm 20, living at home with my parents, working at a Chrysler dealership in service. My job is secure enough to where I can get a vehicle by financing. I do have a few vehicles I can trade in, but my parent's credit is pretty bad. The truck that I am looking at is priced at 13k, but since I am an employee, I can get a discount, so it will be lower than marked. The only things I pay off are my car insurance and phone bill which gives me plenty left over, but I do not plan to spend over 450 a month for it so I am not in trouble.

Is there a way I can get financing with 1 or 2 trades and no extra warranty, despite of no credit and possibly no cosigner?

Dad scratched the sidewall on #4 cylinder on the 350 from a spark plug that broke off inside the engine that is in his 91 Chevy pickup. So we had to bore it out to a 355 and rebuilt it using a non-performance rebuild kit. The cam, pistons, lifters, and crank are to be like OEM and give not much gain in performance.

So we rebuilt it over the summer and are ready to place it back in the truck. But what I am worried about is the computer not being able to be compatible with the extra 5 cubic inches, yet a few people said that the computer would work fine. I need to know from some Chevy people if the computer is in fact able to run a 355 with no trouble.

You know, the giant dumpsters that sits in your driveway.

if so, can it be digested with water?

There is a bump about the size of a penny on the side of my Doberman that's been there for a while. Now, it doesn't bother her at all even when I'm petting her. But it's worrying me what it is and she is only 8 months old.

I have a 92 TBI chevy that misfires for a few seconds in the morning when started. Then runs fine after that. I gave it a complete tune up with new fuel filter. Does anyone know what's going on?

Since Intel released the new core processors, Apple only has the i5/i7 on the 27" version. Will they ever replace the c2d or does it still have alot of life in it?

I have a 92 chevy truck that i tuned up, rebuilt the throttle body, new fuel filter, plugs, rotor, cap, wires, all that good stuff. I'm not real worried about it now because it has a small misfire once started in the morning for 10 seconds and it runs fine. I believe it started doing it after the throttle body rebuild. I even replaced the map sensor and ICM from another vehicle that I knew was working. Spark gap is where it should be. Any Ideas what it might be? I might have done something incorrect on the TB but not sure. The regulator spring looked good and had a lot of life in it so I reused that and the injectors.

I need to know if it is possible replacing a Right Chevy 1/2 ton TBI exhaust manifold with a G20 TBI exhaust manifold. I noticed that on the truck's manifold that the flange is out more than the G20's was. But, will it still work?

It's only been 2 months since the argument on Toyota's safety. Toyota thought they could use an electric throttle control, but failed. Now, I am hearing people are wanting to still buy them, regardless of their MAJOR flaws. Even when their SUV's and Minivans recently failed the moose test. Why are people buying Toyota's lies when a Dodge, Chevy, Ford are way safer? Sure Chevy has the power steering failure on their sub compact cars but that doesn't lower the safety on them, but people want a Toy instead? Man, I guess I'm living in a suicidal age. No company deserves to continue manufacturing their goods if they cause death to a typical operator.

I have a 92 pickup with a 350. New plugs, dist rotor and cap, wires, fuel filter, rebuilt throttle body. Problem is it still runs horrible, misfires at startup and then runs fine. After it is at running temp. it runs the same, wants to die. I thought it was the MAP sensor but it turned out to not be it. Then I unplugged the IAC valve and it seemed to miss out less. Before I unplugged it, the engine would race RPMs then try to die but quickly jump back up in speed. Unplugged the temp sensor would fix it only for a half a minute then go back to its garbage idle.Still it runs like that when I unhook the egr valve as well. I am to my wits end on figuring this out. It ran fine a month ago then started this BS. So, would this issue be the IAC dying on me. Note: I did rebuild the throttle body but I did not replace the TPS and IAC, just cleaned them.

My dad was pulling the cam out of a TBI 350 Chevy engine when he forgot to pull out one of the lifters. Is there a way to retrieve the lifter? would it have fallen into the crankcase? Thanks, Andrew.

There is a guy that is torturing a person with his head clamped in a vice. I think he threatens the guy with a chainsaw but it doesn't start. Then he takes something and wails on the vice until a part where the shadow of the man's head exploding. What movie is this?

My mom's 97 SLS has a hard time to start after sitting a good half hour after running. No this is not a problem with the starter. What it does is that when cranking it over, the engine wants to start but doesn't until after the 6th or 7th crank then runs fine with no problems.

My mom doesn't understand that the car is supposed to burn oil and have to "use" the Northstar every once in a while to burn the leftover oil. All this granny driving could cause the plugs to be fouled out with oil? I looked at the plugs and they seem to be covered immensely with oil on the threads but not the electrode and ceramic, they still look fouled out. Bad PCV maybe? It starts right up when it's cold. No C/E light has been on; yes the fuel-pump has the right amount of pressure.

I have a 99 GMC safari. Its fuel gauge acts up when it starts all the time. It goes from full to empty, then after about a minute it goes back to full and slowly moves to the correct position and doesn't act up any more. This is like the first few minutes after starting when it starts working again. is this the sensor or the gauge? I don't think it is a short because it never fails again.

I have a 97 Toyota Celica that runs great, but a little knock happens around 1500 rpm and the car has sluggish acceleration. The car doesnt burn any oil and runs almost perfect. It only happens when it is hot. Am I going on the right path because I hope its not piston slap. The Check engine light is not on, so it still could be bad, right?

My 97 SLS used to belong to my grandparents but old age and another car; they gave it to me. They also gave it to me because of this misfire problem it has. It sounds like it runs on 7 cylinders for the first few minutes and runs like garbage if you drive it. There is no knocks in the engine. I took it to autozone to get trouble codes and came back with a random misfire code. The car runs perfect after it is warmed up. I think it just needs a major tuneup. The car sat for 2 months when they brought it back from the dealer for a new water pump. Am I right about this problem? The car only has 82000 and is close for a tuneup.

I bought a roller cam from a 99 350 vortec for my 91 350 TBI and it has not come with a "cam stop button". What is it and where does it go on the cam?

I have a 91 Chevy 2500 that I recently done work on the timing. I placed a roller cam from a 99 5.7 Vortec. I'm almost sure that I have it timed correctly, but the valves seem to not open all the way. I still need the rockers adjusted. Does anyone know how to do this step correctly?

The inquiry is about a 1991 Chevy 350 small=block engine. The original camshaft is a traditional hydraulic lifter camshaft, it was replaced with 1999 roller cam and lifter set. I was informed that this camshaft will work in this older Chevy engine. The question is, how many times can the crank timing gear appear in the 12-o-clock position and not be on the number one top dead center position? Before placing the timing chain on the gears, the cam gear is in the 6-o-clock position, and the crank timing mark is in the 12-o-clock position. After placing the harmonic balancer on, the timing mark is about 7 inches over the left of top dead centre. Wondering, wow.

Any help will appreciated.

Thank you